Vacation Weekend at La Feria in Arles- Day 3-Horse Show, More Bullfights and Dancing in the Street

Thanks to going to bed much earlier on Sunday night, we were all able to get up and make it out of the house on time for our morning bullfight. I was still tired but somehow when you know you’re going to do something exciting, you just manage to get yourself up and going no matter what it takes or how you feel. You push the limit cuz you know it’s worth it.

This particular bullfight was preceded by a show of the horses on which the matadors were going to ride during the event. The corrida we were going to see this day was quite a bit different than the one we saw on Sunday. Today was the day that the matador showed off not only his skills as a bullfighter, but also the grace, skills and beauty of his horses. The people really came out for this one. We even got to hear some bands play for us while waiting to enter the arena.

Here’s a glimpse of the show of horses.

I have no idea how these horses were trained to do some of these moves, but it was wonderful. I especially loved the horse at the end of the video that did a prance and waved his head back and forth. Amazing!

After the show of horses it was time for the day’s event of bullfighting. Today we had brought Tinki with us. We thought that she would at least like to watch the horses. The bullfighting was altogether a different story, though, and once the end came I had her sit down and not watch. I actually had her lay her head on my shoulder and shielded her eyes a few times if I saw that the end for the bull was going to be in view.

Here’s a video of one of the events. Again, as with my last post, the killing of the bull is not in the video.

Now, for those of you who are ardent bullfight lovers, have grown up in the south-east of France or in Spain, you might think I was being silly with regards to my daughter, but for the average American, bullfighting is not exactly a sport of choice. I actually think many Americas would be up in arms about this sport which is probably why it hasn’t taken off there. Now, yes, there are animal lovers in France, of course. We’ve all seen the French with their dogs or cats, but every other animal on the planet is fair game and not worth coddling over. Let’s face it, meat eaters win out here and it makes no different what meat that may be.

We Americans, in general, think that every animal out there is a potential pet and totally adorable (regardless of what animal it is) and shame to anyone who would hurt any of these creatures. We bring our children up all sheltered about where the food comes from and how it gets to the table. Let’s face it, we’re mostly animal lovers with a capital A! I’m guilty of this as well and of course, brought my children up this way. So that being said and my daughter an ardent animal lover with a capital A, I did what most mothers would do and said, “Don’t watch”.  Boy did I get some weird stares from the French! Here I was surrounded by families with small children all watching these bulls get annihilated one after the other and they were all cheering for a good fight, kids included. That’s just how it is here. Now, I’ve been told that there are rules and regulations which must be adhered to at all times during the bullfight but heck if I could figure out what they were.

The bullfight is a sport of passion here in Provence much like soccer. The French come out in droves to see this event a few times a year and the matadors are admired like they’re gods. This is a sport that is deeply rooted and has a long history here. Who am I to change that and I wouldn’t want to. Even though a bullfight is not my event of choice, I do respect that it is a cultural event for this area.

That being said, I do confess that Dude and I were always rooting for the bull. We sort of felt like he was the underdog in this whole thing. Besides, it seemed as if everyone else was rooting for the matador so why not help the little guy out, right?? We did have two choice moments where the underdog made our day and boy did Dude and I cheer. The best was when during the second bullfight the bull actually said (yes SAID) that he’d had enough of this and he jumped the fence! Literally jump it and started running around and scaring people in the bottom row!

It was awesome and boy did Dude and I yell and cheer. I tell you it was super exciting. I figured they should have stopped the bullfight right then and there and let that brave bull go. He deserved it, but it was not to be. He had to go back in the arena and finish out the bullfight.

During both the events on Sunday and Monday I got to thinking about how I really felt about the bullfights. I did say I would give my take on it, so here goes. Mind you, I have no intention of protesting, no intention of not ever seeing a bullfight again or telling people to stop spending money on the sport. No way, this is just how I think it goes in my mind.

So, I came to figure that this is not really a fair fight in my opinion. The lovers of the sport will say yes it is (remember there are rules here) but if you really think about it, the cards are very much stacked against the bull and completely in favor of the matador (in this type of bullfight anyway), especially when the matador is on horseback. So here go my reasons for thinking this:

1)      The taureau has only his horns (big deal, he has to have something to defend himself with, sheesh).

2)      There are individual stages throughout each bullfight and at the end of each stage the matador was able to leave the arena and come back on a fresh horse that was totally raring to go and not tired at all. The same horse didn’t fight the whole time. How is this fair, the taureau was the same taureau? He couldn’t go out and have another taureau go take his place so he could rest up.

3)      The matador is usually higher than the taureau so he is able to get a clear approach on the attack and almost always from the top.

4)      There are these little alcoves in the arena that the matadors can run and hide behind to protect himself if need be. The taureau has nowhere to hide. He is always out in the open and given nowhere in which he can run to safety.

5)      There are times when 4 or 5 matadors are in the arena trying to confuse the taureau, why can’t there be 4 or 5 taureaux in the arena to confuse the matador? Come on matador, give us a real show!

6)      The matador can stop and take a break if he needs to, the taureau can’t say, “Wait folks, hold on, I need a quick drink and a break to get back up to speed. I’ll be right back, K”.

7)      If the matador gets hurt, the fight stops and the guy is taken out of the arena for treatment. Nothing happens when the taureau gets hurt, that’s part of the game. You aren’t going to see a fight stop for the taureau to get some medical treatment.

8)      The matador can reason. He can watch the taureau’s actions and manipulate the taureau to turning to his weaker side. He can make the taureau do a great many things just by knowing and studying the nature of the animal. The taureau cannot reason, he is doing what comes by nature. He doesn’t know what the intentions of the matador are therefore he plays along. Animals cannot reason, that is what sets man apart from them.

So there you have it. Some of the reasons why I think this is not a fair fight. I do feel bad for the taureaux since they didn’t ask to be in the arena. They were enlisted, they are not volunteers. So that’s why I have to root for them.

Anyway, like I said, I’m not out to change the way of thinking on bullfights or anything, it’s just my opinion.

Since there were several events that day, Tinki and I watched a few then we headed off to take a look at the renovation of the arena. I wanted to get some good shots of the work that had been done. I can’t believe how great the arena looks. The city has done a nice job of cleaning it up.

I was also able to take some photos of the surrounding city from the view point of the arena.

After the event we all headed over to the American Bar (yup-you read that right). It seems that a friend of a friend owns this place and we had reservations for a late lunch. Here we are all hanging out enjoying the fact that the sun actually came out that day!

As before, Patrick and Jean-Claude busted out their guitars and played for us and anyone else who would listen. They also serenaded some police officers who seemed to enjoy the music.

Then, right before food was served, Nicole, who is a friend of Patrick’s and works at the American Bar, came out to give us all “the bise” and say bonjour. Patrick talked her into dancing while he and Jean-Claude played a song. So here she is Flamenco dancing in the street while a crowd gathered around to watch.

Man, I better start taking lessons so I’m ready for next year!

Dancing and music over we proceeded to have lunch and what was on the menu??? Taureau, of course. Dude, Tinki and myself stayed on the veggie plan since we don’t eat taureau. It was cool, though, cuz for dessert we got ice cream and cheese (together).

After fine food, dancing and music it was time for me, Dude and Tinki to head home. There was another bullfight at 5pm, but we didn’t have tickets for that one and we had a long way to go to get home. After stopping back by Patrick and Toni’s house to get our stuff we were off. We managed to arrive home around 9pm so that wasn’t too bad. We were, none the less, totally exhausted from our weekend, but in a good way.

The dancing, singing and food are enough to call me back again. Fete, fete, fete….Oleeee!

Advertisements

About backyardprovence

I was finally able to realized my dream of living in France when I moved here in 2010. I love to read,I love history and road trips. I want to be doing anything outside in the fresh air. I want to have an entire room devoted to a personal library.

Posted on April 23, 2012, in Bon Voyage! and tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink. 10 Comments.

  1. I love your posts on the La Feria. They are so lively and colorful. Wow.

  2. Marcia & Lonne Fritch

    Wow. The arena corridors are really looking different than when we walked them. The restoration was happening on the outside when we were there. Might have to head back one of these days! I would have closed my eyes, too, and I am an Iowa farm “girl”! Glad that you have enjoyed the rest of the festival. Take care and look for the pleasure of each day! Marcia n Lonne, too.

    • Hi Marcia & Lonne 🙂 You must head back one day both for the festival and to see the arena all sparkling and new. They are just about finished with it, I think. There was still scaffolding up in some areas, but it will look like the day it was built very soon now. I am so glad to see that some villages take pride in their history and ancient buildings. When your there, it gives you such an incredible feeling to see this massive arena that you know was built so long ago, look so wonderful. It is simply marvelous!

  3. There is no doubt that the sport would be outlawed in the US. Heck, making or selling foie gras will be illegal on July 1 in California. The PETA people got a law passed here because they convinced the legislators that force-feeding ducks and geese is painful for them and should be outlawed. I have many of the same shots of the Arena and views from the Arena on my post about Arles.

    • I had no idea about the foi gras, Michel! That’s crazy. Do you serve that in your bistro? I’m not exactly sure that force-feeding the ducks and geese is painful (I’ve never asked one of them), but the French would definitely roll their eyes on that one. America has always been more extreme when it comes to stuff like that so I guess to each his own. With regards to those photos, I guess great minds think alike 🙂

  4. Yes, to the great minds! No to the foie gras! We served it one time several years ago and I got sooooooo much negative reaction from guests and threats to not return if we continued to serve foie gras, that we have never served it again. I should say that the Bistro is in West Sonoma County and we have a lot of “escapees” from the 60s and Haight Asbury who now live in the community and they are very vocal about such things. For a while, there was a foie gras producer in this county, one of only two in the Country and his store front in the town of Sonoma was fire bombed in protest. So you can imagine, what they would all have to say about bull fights.

    • Wow! Michel- What an ordeal! Well I definitely think you did the right thing by not serving the foie gras again. There’s always something else to wet the appetite so you went the right route. That’s so sad about the foie gras producer. Man, Americans can be so vocal and harsh about their opinions. I definitely agree about the bullfights. There is no way that would happen. So I guess the one night you had scheduled as Spanish bullfight night served with foie gras was cancelled right ? 🙂

  5. I love those old archways!

    • I do too, Nicole! I think they are so beautiful and each one has a story to tell. Oh to have been around through the ages to see what they’ve seen. Thanks for reading and for your comment:)

Que pensez-vous?

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: